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Mi Amiga Saira
An Invitation
When my friend Saira invited me to visit her and her family over Semana Santa (holy week), I hesitated, since Gene had to stay home to continue his PT. Then I came home from the market and found that he had made me a reservation for the next day. So here I am in one of my favorite cities, Antigua, Guatemala for one of the most incredible displays I've ever seen. Antigua is said to be second only to Sevilla for the grandeur of its celebration of lent. For many more pictures of Antigua, along with the rest of Guatemala, and a lot of information, visit our first trip here two years ago.
Alfombras
The alfombras (carpets) are my favorite part of Semana Santa. Made of pine needles and colored sand and sawdust, flowers and flower petals and other decorative items, most of them are unbelievably complex in their designs. They are constructed along the entire route of the processions - basically the entire city of Antigua - by the families and businesses along the route. Entire families get together and work on their alfombra. Many of them work on them for 12 hours or more. There is at least one procession each day of Semana Santa. On Viernes Santo (Good Friday) there are four and some of them eventually go down some of the same streets. This means that some families rush to make a new alfombra after the first procession goes through. The later ones are less elaborate due to time constraints.
Made in Hours - Gone in Minutes
Although many hours go into their planning and preparation, these works of art last only minutes once they're completed. Usually finished shortly before the procession arrives so that they will be fresh, once the main float arrives, it is carried over the alfombra and that is the end of it.
All Night Long
On Viernes Santo (Good Friday) the first procession starts at 3 o'clock in the morning, when the Roman Soldiers pass by. So everyone is in the streets all night long, either making an alfombra or walking around town watching them get made.
Alfombras in the Churches
Alfombras are also created in the churches. They are created as part of the Velaciones and usually include fruits, vegetables and candles and sometimes breads created in the shapes of various animals. In some churches, an alfombra is created every Friday during lent.
Velaciones
Velaciones (holy vigils) are held at the various churches throughout lent and holy week. The insides of the churches are decorated elaborately and going by the crowds, it appears that absolutely everyone in town is there. It is a very sacred event, but not a good place for someone who is bothered by crowds or who is afraid of being pickpocketed (or having their bag slashed like I did). There is generally a band at the entrance playing funeral march music in the evening, which is when most people go.
Outside, in front of the church, another crowd scene is created by the feria atmosphere with vendors selling all sorts of great junk food.
Outside, in front of the church, another crowd scene is created by the feria atmosphere with vendors selling all sorts of great junk food.
Cafe y Jesus
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